In Salvador

We arrived in Salvador early on Friday morning, docking at the Cruise Terminal. We had a morning tour planned and looked forward to exploring some of the former capital, of which I'd read interesting things.

For Salvador is the largest African city outside Africa and I'd read of the colour and the culture we'd see. Right up my street, then!

With Isaaco our guide, our first stop was at the lighthouse, situated at the point of the peninsula.

Isaaco offered the usual advice of taking care with our personal security, specifically suggesting that we should remove necklaces here. Hmmm.

The chap down on the shore looked good in bright yellow - his matching T shirt lay on a nearby rock. I was amused that he appeared to be beachcombing with a glass in his hand! Nearby a couple of dogs frolicked in the water having fun too.

From the lighthouse, we drove through some residential suburbs, gently climbing up into the old town.

The streets were bustling and it took time to make progress but it's interesting to look out of the window and notice things, isn't it?

Soon, we were in the Prada Municipal, where there was quite a lively scene. Here were the ladies I'd read about, wearing their large skirts and colourful headscarves. Here too were groups of tourists like us, but mostly, the square was filled with a large group of high school students.

This square had been the site of an enormous cathedral, the old Governor's Palace and the area had seen some renovation, which was still ongoing.

From here too, it was possible to take the Elevator Lacerda back down to the port area, for the old city was high up here on a bluff.

The old Governor's Palace had been in use until 1979 but is now a museum.

And as Isaaco pointed out the grand yellow building on the street corner opposite, the former home of a rich Portuguese merchant, the youngsters waved. Had we noticed what they were carrying, asked Isaaco?

Sure enough, some were carrying models of buildings here, which were something to do with saints’ days. With so much going on, I didn't quite catch the complete story, because they were keen to interact.

They were busy posing for a photo, happy to chat in halting English and proud of the models they were carrying. But of course, we didn't have time to linger.

I snapped a quick photo of the monument to the huge church which had stood on this site and hurried to keep up with Isaaco, who was moving on into the next square.

Here, he introduced us to Acaraje Mary, a Baiana de Acarajé who was preparing the ingredients for the local street snack at her stall in the Praça da Sé. These Acaraje deep fried balls of spicy black eyed peas filled with spicy seafood. Right now it was too early to be cooking them, but later, she'd drop them into the frier and according to Isaaco, these were the best in town.

Along a couple of small streets and into a large square, then, with a fountain in the middle. Isaaco pointed out the “Portuguese Stones” there. Here we were in the Terreiro da Jesus and behind us was the Cathedral Basilica our next stop.

We stepped straight inside, with instructions from Isaaco not to look up just yet. He was busy finding us a place to sit and listen by one of the fans in there, for even in here, the temperature was soaring.

“Ok. You can look up now”. Wow.

Looking down again, I noticed the sign on the pew in front of me. A new word for my vocabulary and one that clearly, those sitting in the same row as me were unable to work out…

The interior of the Cathedral is mostly Carrera marble and decorated in Mannerist style, though every side chapel and the main altar area of the nave was covered in gold. Each of those small chapels - female saints on the right, male on the left - was in a different style, some baroque, some Rococo.

And there, in small corners was a feature I'd been looking out for.

Portuguese ceramic tiles. Beautiful and very lovely when paired with all of that gold.

From the main church, we went through into the Sacristy, where there was another stunning ceiling.

This one is painted in Mannerist style in a rich palette of colours and depicts important members of the church. I recall Isaaco explaining that the three figures right in the centre were responsible for bringing water into this area, though didn't pay careful enough attention!

Here was a beautiful set of drawers for vestments and suchlike, each one finely inlaid with ivory and tortoiseshell.

On each side was a central altar, built in the same Carrera marble as in the main church.

“Come on”, said Isaaco, “I have another special place to show you” We followed him back out into the main square and headed off to our next stop via the fountain in the centre.

The fence surrounding the fountain was covered with coloured ribbon ties.

I understand they are tied to represent prayers and wishes and could only think that they were a far more practical symbol that those ghastly locks that people fix to places elsewhere! (Regular readers will know what I think of those!)

We were heading down to another beautiful church, through a wide street, the Largo do Cruzeiro de São Francisco. A team of workers were working in the hot sun, clearing the grass from between the cobbles. Hard work at the best of times but in these temperatures?

We came across this chap, selling something we couldn't recognise, but which smelled very sweet. The round balls were nets of coconut fibre perfumed with sandalwood oil for hanging in wardrobes. He also had bundles of the same thing wrapped into sticks for placing in drawers. Here in the street, the scent was fragrant and sweet but could be overpowering in a small space we thought.

I love that here in the city, there is beauty around every corner!

In we went to the Convento e Igreja de São Francisco - firstly into this beautiful square of shady cloisters. On every side was a magnificent run of tiled panels in blue and white.

I loved the symmetry and the rhythm of the design!

Having seen one magnificent cathedral this morning, it was hard to imagine how there could possibly be somewhere more spectacular, but sure enough, just inside that door in the corner, here it is.

With patchy internet today, I'm afraid I'm going to have to leave that until my next post!