Auld Reekie
We’ve been to Edinburgh many times and were none too excited when our adjusted itinerary included a second day here, especially during the first weekend of the Fringe. Nevertheless, it seemed like a good chance to visit the Scottish National Gallery, so we hopped on the first shuttle bus of the day and landed not far from Princes Street.
Like so many city centre shopping streets, Princes Street is no longer the prime destination it once was. These American Candy stores are popping up all over and it was unsurprising to come across one here as well.
The good thing about Princes Street is that, for much of the way, there’s a fine view on the other side of the street and even on a gloomy morning, there are landmarks to pick out and identify.
It was a better view than that of another sweet shop.
No piper on the quayside this morning, so the first we heard today was just by the gallery.
Where the supplies from last night’s party were being replenished for tonight’s do.
There was quite a bit of clearing up to do as well. I think it’s fair to say that we were not seeing Edinburgh at its shining best this morning.
Thankfully, just steps away were the charms of an altogether different place. The Scottish National Gallery is just off Princes Street, is free to visit and needs no booking. In no time at all we were there amongst some glorious works of art, some familiar and others not so.
I was using the terrific Smartify app on my phone, which meant I could keep my distance and not have to go up close to read the details of each painting. Not only that, but I could “like” those paintings I wanted to read about later, because the app saves the images and the related information to my phone. I love it!
Smartify couldn’t identiry the black heap on the floor beneath this painting though. Is it art? Well, not really! the sign upon it said “do not disturb monitoring equipment” and a close look revealed there were power cables to it. So we didn’t disturb it and moved on to more interesting things!
It’s always fun to turn the corner in a gallery and discover a familiar painting there on the wall. So it was with The Monarch of the Glen, one of those pictures that is on tins of shortbread, on book covers and everywhere. But seeing it “for real” seems special, brings it to life and of course, allows all those tiny details to be seen.
Reverend Robert Walker Skating on Duddingston Loch is another familiar image that always makes me smile. Smaller than I’d imagined, it wasn’t particularly showcased at all, but hung quietly around a corner as perhaps befits the Reverend himself (though I think he looks to be rather a fun kind of chap!)
As well as the familiar favourites (including the portrait of Lady Agnew of Lochnaw by John Singer Sargent, that I completed as a jigsaw last year) I enjoy finding new discoveries. This morning, it was this work, Saint Bride by John Duncan that caught my eye. I loved the colours, the patterns on the draped robes and thought it surprisingly contemporary bearing in mind its age. I guess that’s revealed in the faces, which are very much of its time. Isn’t it lovely? Mind you, I could perhaps have done without those birds, which are an unwelcome reminder of our encounter with the gull in St Andrews!
So, lovely gallery and a morning well spent.
Out on the street, the day was getting going. Someone was doing a show in the plaza we’d walked through earlier, so we took the alternative route back onto Princes Street, where the piper was still piping.
After a bit of thought about what we might do next, we decided to return to the shuttle stop along George Street, which might be a little more interesting. Though all the shops were open, the street itself was closed to traffic and as the day progresses, would become a bit of a theatre in itself, it seemed.
We could have been tempted by this show, which looks particularly funny!
Looks like it would be happening right here, too. But I had a commitment this afternoon and with all aboard early evening, this time we’d have to give it a miss. Never mind.
With an eye on our watches, we made our way back to Charlotte Square. By now, the sun was out and some of the charms of Edinburgh were more obvious, beyond all the Fringe clutter.
Admiring the fine memorial to Prince Albert as we went, we jumped on the shuttle to return to Leith.
There was just time for a bite to eat before my jewellery class this afternoon.
UPDATE: just as we’d arrived back, we heard the Captain make an announcement. It seems as though the weather conditions are such that the wind speed makes it too risky for us to make our way through the locks here at high tide tonight. That means we have to wait until tomorrow’s tide and that we’ll be spending another day here in Leith. Not only that, but our scheduled port for tomorrow, Newcastle, has been cancelled as we will sail directly to Bruges tomorrow evening. These things happen, we are at the mercy of the weather and trust the judgement of the Captain whose primary concern is safety. I fully support him on that!!
